This tasting was organized by Peter Wirth, who sourced the bottles and Peter Büel, who organized the restaurant and us wine aficionados. It offered a rare opportunity to explore nearly half a century of Château Mouton Rothschild, ranging from the post-war era to the modern age, with many bottles drawn from a single long-established private cellar in Switzerland — a provenance that undoubtedly contributed to the good condition of many wines
Mouton occupies a singular place in Bordeaux history. Although classified as a 2eme Cru in the famous 1855 Classification, Baron Philippe de Rothschild spent decades lobbying for the estate’s promotion, arguing that the quality of Mouton merited parity with the Médoc’s First Growths. In 1973, after years of political and institutional resistance, Mouton became the only château ever elevated within the original classification, prompting the celebrated amendment of its motto from “Premier ne puis, second ne daigne, Mouton suis” to “Premier je suis, second je fus.”
Equally emblematic are Mouton’s artist-designed labels, introduced by Baron Philippe in 1945. Each vintage since has featured original artwork commissioned from leading artists of the era, including figures such as Chagal, Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dalí, Andy Warhol – and for us Swiss of course, the really well executed 1987 Hans Erni label. What began as a celebration of the 1945 victory vintage evolved into one of wine’s most recognizable intersections of fine art and fine wine.
The tasting itself demonstrated both the longevity and stylistic breadth of Mouton. The greatest wines — above all the 1961, 1959, 1982 and 1989 — combined the estate’s unmistakable Pauillac structure with remarkable aromatic generosity and textural refinement. Mature vintages such as 1971 and 1957 showed how gracefully Mouton can evolve into fully tertiary complexity while retaining freshness and definition. By contrast, vintages such as 1986 illustrated the château’s more monumental and uncompromising side: powerful, dense and still somewhat austere even after decades in bottle. The only setback of the tasting was the 1945, which was unfortunately oxidized.
All was ready for a great lunch at restaurant La Cucina Colaianni at Freilager
Tasting Notes
Aperitif
2018 Château Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc – 94 Points
Expressive and already remarkably complex on the nose, combining grassy freshness with yellow orchard fruit and subtle oak spice. The palate shows admirable energy and persistence, balancing ripeness with freshness. Layered and composed, with the oak neatly integrated into the wine’s textural breadth. Already highly attractive.
Flight 1 – The seventies
1975 Château Mouton Rothschild – 94 Points
Fully tertiary yet beautifully intact. Aromas of mushroom, sour cherry and peat dominate, with no trace of oxidation. The palate remains surprisingly vital for the vintage and age, showing admirable balance and persistence. A thoroughly mature claret in very fine condition. 94+
1974 Château Mouton Rothschild – 92 Points
More earthy and subdued than the 1975, with less remaining fruit and a somewhat timid aromatic profile. Residual tannins still frame the palate, while the fruit is beginning to recede. Drying slightly on the finish, though still entirely pleasurable to drink.
1971 Château Mouton Rothschild – 95 Points
Wonderfully aromatic and immediately evocative of mature Bordeaux: forest floor, farmyard notes and mushroom, alongside cranberry and bright red fruits. A slight leafy note adds complexity rather than greenness. Fresh acidity gives the wine admirable lift and definition. Classical, elegant mature claret.
1970 Château Mouton Rothschild – 92 Points
Noticeably higher acidity than the surrounding vintages, with slightly underripe red fruits alongside mushroom and earthy tertiary notes. Correct and fully mature, though somewhat leaner and less complete.
Flight 3 – The historic flight I
1964 Château Mouton Rothschild – Flawed
Dominated by volatile acidity and vinegar notes.
1957 Château Mouton Rothschild – 95 Points
Initially discreet aromatically, gradually revealing earthy spice, peppermint, mushroom and delicate red fruits. Particularly refined and nuanced on the palate, with a gentle persistence that rewards patience. Quietly impressive.
1948 Château Mouton Rothschild – 92 Points
Fully tertiary and clearly past its peak, yet remarkably dignified for a wine approaching 80 years of age. Mushroom and sous-bois dominate. Particularly notable for the complete absence of oxidative character. A moving historical wine.
Flight 4 – Magnums at their peak
1994 Château Mouton Rothschild – 94 Points
From Magnum. Still youthful in appearance, with a dark garnet core belying its age. Precise blue fruit aromas mingle with mint and well-integrated oak. The cooler vintage signature is apparent in the bright acidity and linear structure. Tannins have softened attractively, though the wine still feels relatively early in its evolution. Medium length but finely balanced.
1989 Château Mouton Rothschild – 96 Points
From Magnum. Immediately recognizable as Mouton from its toasty, cedary aromatic signature. Ripe blue fruits, pine resin and subtle farmyard notes emerge with air. The warmth and generosity of the vintage are evident, yet the wine retains commanding Pauillac structure. Broad, confident and deeply satisfying. 96+
1987 Château Mouton Rothschild – Flawed
From Magnum. Unfortunately affected by light cork taint. Beneath the flaw, however, there appeared to be a finely balanced wine with cool blue fruit, fresh acidity and polished tannins. Not rated.
1983 Château Mouton Rothschild – 94 Points
From Magnum. Slightly compromised aromatically by stale and musty notes, though the palate remained charming and harmonious. Roasted nuances accompany the remaining fruit, and the finish persists attractively. A wine that surpassed its nose.
Flight 5 – The Historic flight II
1961 Château Mouton Rothschild – 99 Points
In magnificent condition and unquestionably one of the wines of the evening. Blackberry, blueberry, peat and forest floor unfold with extraordinary complexity and precision. The balance is effortless, the acidity perfectly judged and the length exceptional. Cooler and more aristocratic than the 1959 beside it, though equally profound. 98-100
1959 Château Mouton Rothschild – 97 Points
A warmer, more expansive expression than the 1961, with aromas of coffee, toast, tea and ripe blue fruit. The palate combines generosity with freshness, avoiding any heaviness. Grand, charming and deeply seductive, with superb maturity.
1947 Château Mouton Rothschild – Flawed
Marked by musty, sour and lactic notes with an old-candy character. Not rated
1945 Château Mouton Rothschild – Flawed
Alas, completely oxidized. Not rated.
Flight 6 – The two 100 Pointers of the 80ies
1986 Château Mouton Rothschild – 95 Points
From Magnum. Dense, dark and still remarkably compact. The formidable tannins have finally resolved, yet the wine remains somewhat stern and reserved in personality. Dark fruit dominates, framed by a powerful structure. Impressive rather than charming.
1982 Château Mouton Rothschild – 97 Points
Still astonishingly youthful and very much alive. Layers of dark fruit are complemented by kitchen spice, leather, farmyard notes and saddle nuances. The palate is expansive yet energetic, finishing long and complex. A magnificent showing. 97+
Flight 7 – Dessert
1967 Château d’Yquem 92 Points
Deeply coloured and fully mature, offering aromas of saffron, earth and smoke. Rich and unctuous on the palate, though ultimately sweeter than my personal preference. Fully evolved and highly characteristic.
1986 Château d’Yquem 94 Points
Noticeably fresher and more lifted than the 1967, showing white flowers alongside the expected botrytised richness. Better tension and brightness, with greater freshness through the finish. Elegant rather than monumental.
1945 Sempe Armagnac 93 Points
I am not the biggest fan of brandy spirits like Armagnac, but this was really smooth and aromatic with dried fruit, orange peel and sandal wood.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
April 2026
