I had the chance to be invited to a FICOFI dinner with wines form the Domaine Dugat-Py with Loïc Dugat being present and leading through the evening. Founded in 1990 by Philippe Capdouze, Le Club FICOFI is one of the most exclusive private wine clubs globally. At its core, FICOFI operates as a closed, invitation-only community of approximately 400 members worldwide, typically composed of entrepreneurs, business leaders, and privateers united by a shared passion for the world’s finest wines. One of the strong points of FICOFI ist that they have long standing relationships and allocations from many prestigious domains and they curate great wine events for its members.
Dugat-Py – Historical Overview and Style
Loïc Dugat, born in 1981, represents the 13th generation of his family to cultivate vines in Gevrey-Chambertin, and his trajectory within the domaine has been both early and deeply immersive. From a young age, he participated in harvests and cellar work, learning alongside his father Bernard Dugat and grandfather Pierre Dugat, whose combined experience spanned more than eight decades. This formative exposure instilled not only technical competence but also a strong continuity of philosophy rooted in meticulous viticulture and low-intervention élevage.
Following formal studies in viticulture and oenology in Beaune, Loïc returned to the family domaine, where he worked closely with his father – whom he credits with having “taught him everything.” At the same time, he broadened his intellectual framework through studies with Pierre Masson, a leading authority on biodynamic farming, and Jacky Rigaux at the Institut Universitaire de la Vigne et du Vin in Dijon, where a strong emphasis is placed on the primacy of terroir expression.
As early as 1999, Loïc initiated trials in organic viticulture, beginning in Chambertin and in village-level parcels such as those used for the Cour de Roy cuvée. These experiments were successful and organic practices were subsequently extended across the entirety of the domaine. Today, the estate is farmed according to rigorous organic – and in practice often biodynamic – principles, with an emphasis on soil vitality, low yields, and optimal phenolic maturity.
The domaine itself remains relatively compact by Burgundy standards, comprising 15ha with wines made from 30 appellations, the core of course being in Gevrey-Chambertin, with an enviable holdings profile that includes parcels in Charmes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, and Chambertin itself, alongside a range of village and premier cru sites. A defining feature is the exceptionally high proportion of très vieilles vignes, many exceeding 70 years of age and, in certain parcels, surpassing a century.
Loïc Dugat (middle) the current, 13th generation (!), wine maker of the Domaine,
In the cellar, the style at Dugat-Py is unapologetically ambitious and has evolved over time. Historically, the wines were known for very high levels of new oak, significant extraction, and extended élevage, yielding dense, powerful wines that required substantial aging. Over the past decade, there has been a perceptible shift toward greater finesse and transparency: while the wines remain deeply concentrated, there is now a more measured use of oak, more careful extraction, and an increased focus on precision and delineation. Whole cluster inclusion is employed variably depending on the vintage, contributing additional aromatic complexity and structural nuance.
The resulting wines are typically rich, texturally layered, and built for long-term cellaring, yet in recent vintages they display improved balance and a clearer articulation of site. Critical opinion has, perhaps unsurprisingly, been somewhat polarized. William Kelley has noted both the remarkable concentration and ambition of the wines while also observing stylistic evolution toward greater restraint and terroir transparency in recent years. Similarly, Jasper Morris has commented on the domaine’s transition from a more opulent, oak-influenced idiom toward a style that increasingly privileges energy, precision, and vineyard expression, while still retaining the hallmark depth that defines Dugat-Py.
Today, Dugat-Py stands as one of the more distinctive addresses in Gevrey-Chambertin: a domaine that combines old-vine patrimony, exacting viticulture, and a continually evolving winemaking philosophy, producing wines that are at once powerful and, increasingly, refined.
A beautiful spring day at the Côte d’Azur with the obligatory Monaco bling
Tasting Notes
Whites
2022 Dugat-Py Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Vieilles Vignes – 95 Points
From very old vines (circa 80 years) and high-trained canopies. Very generous and charming wine, did particularly well tonight, did not need to hide against the Corton Charlemagne next to it. The nose reflects a restrained reduction that gradually reveals notes of citrus, mineral reduction and a touch of cream. The medium-bodied flavors possess a notably fine phenolic maturity, with a mineral-driven core and a subtle richness that buffers the firm acid spine. The finish is persistent, balanced and impressively detailed. All the whites were very convincing. Well-judged reduction combined with aromatic generosity.
2022 Dugat-Py Corton-Charlemagne Vieilles Vignes – 96 Points
A more reserved nose reluctantly reveals aromas of citrus zest, mineral reduction and discreet oak influence. On the palate there is excellent precision and vibrancy, with focused flavors of lemon, mineral and lightly spiced butter that tighten noticeably on the backend. A pronounced mineral spine emerges on the long, phenolic and youthfully austere finish. This is both generous and tightly wound, with clear aging potential. Best after 2030.
2019 Dugat-Py Corton-Charlemagne Vieilles Vignes – 97 points
In contrast to the 2022, this is notably more open and aromatic, offering a cooler profile of citrus, grapefruit and mineral nuances along with subtle oak spice and a hint of toast. The palate impression is lighter and more refined, with an airy, almost weightless texture that carries through to a long, elegant and beautifully balanced finish. This is a particularly graceful expression of Corton-Charlemagne.
The kitchen and sommelier of the Pavyllon Monte-Carlo in the Hotel Hermitage did a fantastic job presenting the wines and dishes
Reds
2019 Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes – 96 Points
A highly expressive nose combines red berry fruit aromas of strawberry and raspberry with soft spice nuances. The palate is refined and precise, with a sleek, almost delicate mouthfeel that contrasts with the underlying intensity. The finish is long, pure and notably charming, displaying a subtle sweetness of fruit and excellent overall balance. The style of Dugat-Py becomes evident in this red, fragrant, gentle, delicate Pinot Noirs. 96+
2019 Dugat-Py Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes – 99 Points
From extremely old vines and produced in minute quantities, this is markedly more concentrated than the Charmes. The nose is intensely layered, offering notes of sous-bois, red and dark berry fruit and discreet sauvage nuances. Despite the extraordinary density, the wine remains balanced, with a striking sense of controlled power and breadth. The finish is exceptionally long, structured and built for extended aging. This is a profoundly impressive and highly age-worthy wine. As mentioned, only one barrels produced and only occasionally released to the trade. Glad to have had the opportunity to taste this rare bird. 98-100
2017 Dugat-Py Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes – 98 Points
An elegant and highly perfumed nose features violet, rose and red berry fruit aromas along with hints of spice and earth. The palate is refined, complete and harmonious, delivering excellent depth without undue weight. The finish is long, complex and notably sophisticated, with a fine sense of proportion. Very small production, only one barrels and only occasionally released to the trade. Glad to have had the opportunity to taste this rare bird.
2010 Dugat-Py Chambertin Très Vieilles Vignes – 96 Points
FICOFI dinner Dugat-Py. From a different era, a more overtly mature aromatic profile displays noticeable notes of tobacco ash, graphite and dark fruit. The palate is dense and structured, with a distinctly masculine character supported by firm but well-integrated tannins. This remains youthful and somewhat tightly coiled, suggesting that additional bottle age will further enhance its complexity and overall harmony. If you have this in the cellar, do yourself a favor and wait till 2030 before opening this. 96+
2005 Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin – 95 points
This is richer and more robust in style, offering layered aromas of dark cherry, raspberry, rose and spice, including hints of clove. The palate is dense and structured, with still-prominent tannins that lend a slightly firm texture. The finish is long and intense, and it benefited from time in the glass and being paired with food.
1990 Dugat-Py Charmes-Chambertin – 94 Points
Fully mature, the nose displays tertiary notes of tea leaf, mushroom and softened red fruit, with a hint of oxidative character. The palate is resolved and gentle, offering a still-pleasant core of fruit framed by evolved structure. While clearly at full maturity, this remains enjoyable and continues to provide drinking pleasure.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
April 2026
