Chapoutier is one of the most prestigious and influential estates in the Northern Rhône, with a legacy dating back to 1808. The estate has built an enduring reputation for producing some of the finest wines in Hermitage and across the Rhône Valley, showcasing the unique characteristics of its terroirs. Under the leadership of Michel Chapoutier, who took the reins in the early 1990s, the estate pioneered biodynamic farming practices in the Rhône, becoming one of the region’s first to embrace organic and sustainable viticulture. Michel’s passionate commitment to terroir expression and quality craftsmanship has transformed M. Chapoutier into a beacon of innovation and tradition, earning the estate international acclaim.
Unlike other esteemed producers on Hermitage hill, such as Jean-Louis Chave, who crafts one single blended Hermitage wine, M. Chapoutier takes a distinct approach, vinifying its wines on a parcel-by-parcel basis. This method allows Chapoutier to highlight the specific characteristics of Hermitage’s diverse micro-terroirs, producing single-parcel wines like Le Méal, L’Ermite, and Les Greffieux. Each of these wines reflects the unique soil, elevation, and exposure of its vineyard site, resulting in nuanced expressions of Syrah that bring the complexity of the Hermitage appellation to life. This approach has set Chapoutier apart, reinforcing the estate’s status as a master of terroir-driven winemaking.
Next to his famous parcel wines, M. Chapoutier is also well known for its broad range of wines across the greater Rhône Valley and beyond. Michel Chapoutier’s commitment to making fine wine accessible extends to his work in the Languedoc and collaborations in Australia, expanding the estate’s influence worldwide. I personally like the “St.Joseph Les Granits” very much as a high end Northern Rhone Syrah with a very attractive price. So if you don’t want to shell out the money needed for a Hermitage, buy this. Finally it is a noteworthy fact that Chapoutier’s wines are bottled with Braille labels, a distinctive touch introduced by Michel to honor Maurice Monier de la Sizeranne, the original owner of the Hermitage vineyard, who was blind.
I was able to visit the Domaine recently as I have been good friends with Edouard Payot, their sales director in Asia, a big wine buff and very good blind taster. Tasting with him confirms my love of Syrah from the Rhone, they hold a special place in my wine collection next to Burgundy and Bordeaux.
Soil types of the Hill of Hermitage
Wines tasted during the visit – Whites
2021 M. Chapoutier Chasselas La Combe Pilate, 89 Points
Good lord, a Chasselas. I guess they must have served it to us since we all were Swiss. Everybody knows that I am not much a fan of this grape, but I have to say that it this one was quite decent. Light and fresh with citrus and a little residual CO2. As good as they come.
2022 M. Chapoutier St. Péray Haut Chamblard, 92 Points
Wonderfully fresh nose with citrus, yellow apple and baking spices. Gentle oak and yeast on the palate entry with followed by a sappy finish. Not the last word on complexity but very complete for its level.
2020 M. Chapoutier St. Joseph Blanc Les Granilites, 94 Points
A step up from the St.Peray. Precise and mineralic nose with apricot and green apple. Generous palate that stays fresh and mineralic. A very complete white wine that does not feel heavy. If you are a cool climate white wine drinker go for this. 94-95
2022 M. Chapoutier Condrieu Invitare, 91 Points
True to the variety, floral note jumping from the glass, a big difference to the Marsanne, much more floral. I am not such a fan of Viognier due to the florality but that is just me. Medium+ body, good freshness.
2020 M. Chapoutier Hermitage Blanc Chante-Alouette, 93 Points
Nose of ripe lemon, orange rind, yellow fruit. Ripe on the palate, generous but with bright acidity. Rich on the palate due to the ripeness but not oily. they managed the balance well in this wine.
Wines tasted during the visit – Reds
2021 M. Chapoutier Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pie VI, 94 Points
Light purple color. I love the nose here with farmyard funk, garrigue. Fresh and zesty, not too thik, medium bodied mouthfeel. They found the right formula here in Southern Rhone. A very attractive CdP, especially for the price.
2014 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc De L’Orée, 96 Points
Dark yellow color. Oh la, la. Lovely nose of apricot and quince, spices, animalic notes as well. Generous palate with well judged bitterness on the finish buffering the fruit. This is grand and in very good shape at age 10. Kudos!
2022 M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers, 92 Points
Made in concrete tanks and 25% barrique. Dark purple color. Bright red fruit, fresh and easy going. Solid everyday wine.
2021 M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Sicamor 93 Points
Nice nose. A step up from the Mezonieres. From plots on the Hermitage hill. Complex aromas of licorice, dark fruit, precise and mineralic. Young. 93-94
2021 M. Chapoutier St. Joseph Les Granilites, 93 Points
This had similar complexity than the Sicamor which is from the Hermitage hill. Dark fruit, licorice, pepper. Pronounced acidity giving freshness. Will need time. 93+
2010 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon, NR
Hmm, this was rather ripe with a touch of Maggi, I feel this bottle was much more advanced than recent samples I had. Not representative, Not rated.
M.Chapoutier wines tasted on other ocasions
2010 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon, 98 Points
Blind tasting dinner. Decanted for 5 hours. Wow, right away you were impressed by this. Wonderful nose with smoke, tobacco, spice and black pepper, earthy, very grand. The palate is dense but racy with great acidity and tannins. Feels very young. If you own this, wait till at least 2025 before opening it.
2012 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite Hermitage, 97 Points
During a blind tasting dinner. Another great flight were these two young 2012 Chapoutier Cuvee Parcellaires. The Le Pavillion (96+pt) was more closed and reserved with lots of freshness on the palate, medium bodied, still some oak to work though, then some spicy ginger, on the smokey finish, richer and denser than the l’Ermite (97pt) next to it which slightly had the upper hand. It was even more elegant and had a wonderful aroma display changing between cola, dried beef, smoke and red fruit. Very aromatic, very fresh. I think both wines can add points from here once they are mature. I estimate that they will peak 2027 onwards.
2001 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal Hermitage, 97 Points
Wow, much better than the 2001 Ermite I had 5 years ago, may be it was not ready then. Extremely complex nose of dark fruit with lots of leather, smoke, BBQ and barnyard scents. Medium-full bodied, good structure and freshness. World class Syrah and WOTN against a strong 2008 Rousseau Ruchottes.
2006 M. Chapoutier Ermitage l’Ermite Hermitage, 97 Points
During a blind tasting dinner. Youngish color, shiny, purple. Wow, my kind of Rhone nose ripe dark fruit, meaty. The palate is ultra-precise here, elegant, great tannins. A world class Syrah. Much better than the 2005 Pavillon which felt over-extracted and showed a lot of heat.
2019 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc l’Ermite, 96 Points
Matter of Taste 100 Point Master Class: During a MOT tasting. 100% Marsanne, Elegant palate, lemon, minerals, stone fruit, precise, not flabby or heavy at all, they nailed this one. Luis Gutierrez said that you should drink these either before 5 years or after 15. In between they often close and are in an awkward transition phase.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
13. May 2024