Hermitage La Chapelle, named after the small stone chapel on the famous Hill of Hermitage Tain, the Northern Rhône, is one of France’s most iconic wines, celebrated for its power, complexity, and extraordinary aging potential. Created by Maison Paul Jaboulet Aîné, La Chapelle embodies the storied terroir of the Hermitage appellation, where steep, sun-drenched granite slopes yield intense, structured Syrah. The 1961 vintage of Hermitage La Chapelle stands among the most legendary wines of the 20th century, achieving a perfect 100-point score from Robert Parker. This milestone cemented La Chapelle’s status as a global collector’s item and benchmark for the potential of Syrah. Today collectors pay more 10’000$ to buy one of the remaining bottles in the market.
The sudden death of Gérard Jaboulet in the late 1990s saw the domaine’s reputation wane and became an inconsistent performer. History took a significant turn in 2006 when the estate was sold to the Frey family in 2006, who also own Bordeaux’s Third Growth Château La Lagune. Under Caroline Frey’s leadership, Hermitage La Chapelle has been revitalized, with an emphasis on organic practices and a renewed dedication to quality. However there are also voices who note that the wine has become too modern (ripe, oaky). The change of the label was also a miss and had to be undone, now we are back to the old label.
I tasted this wine at several occasions as I was particularly interested in the development amid the purchase by the Frey family. My take: This famous Rhone Classic produces quite a rich, warm and sunny wine, less peppery and structured than some of its peers. For me, especially some vintages had too much of a Barossa profile. Jean-Louis Chave remains the benchmark for me in Northern Rhone, but I will follow the development of this Cru with interest.
Vintages made under Carolin Frey
2015 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 96 Points
During a merchant tasting. Dark purple. Expressive nose of dark fruit, oak, vanilla, cake, blueberry, on the ripe side. Opulent, soft palate, structure is there. Very modern vinification here. A complete wine in the quality range of the 2012 but not up there with the 2010, at least from this first snapshot
2012 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 96 Points
One of the the classic names of Hermitage (next to Chave and Chapoutier) which had a quality struggle for a good 15 years until it was bought up by the Frey family in 2006 (Champagne Bilcart Salmon, Chateau La Lagune). Tasting note: PnP, dark purple, wow, this 2012 really rocks. Distinctive Rhone North nose with black pepper, smoke, bbq meat, oak and very ripe dark fruit, deep and complex. On the palate the tannins are present but very soft. No doubt that they found the optimal point of concentration, freshness, structure and fruit in this vintage. Powerful but not heavy, really a great success – a bit lighter and not far off from the 2010. The later will be a monument, (an iconic vintage in Europe, be it CdP, Rhone North, Barolo, Brunello, Bordeaux) even more compact and precise meriting 2-3 points more. However, the smart money goes to the 2012, an unpretentious, cheaper vintage. Kudos to the Frey family for saving this estate from the abyss. Btw, the tannins are so soft you can actually try a bottle now to satisfy your curiosity. 96+
2010 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 97 Points
One of the the classic names of Hermitage (next to Chave and Chapoutier) which had a quality struggle for a good 15 years until it was bought up by the Frey family in 2006 (Champagne Bilcart Salmon, Chateau La Lagune). Tasting note: Very dark purple, polished and shiny. Expressive nose of lots of blue and dark fruit with licorice, mint, flowers, spices, some very slight black pepper hinting towards Northern Rhone. Impressive entry on the palate with spades of ripe fruit, sweetness and density, could be Barossa from the density but not from the aromatics and freshness which are clearly Rhone. Very tightly woven, silky tannins. A most impressive young Syrah combining excellent fruit, freshness, structure and aromatics. Despite being drinkable now due to the silkiness of the tannins, better not to open this not before 2020.
2009 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 94 Points
One of the the classic names of Hermitage (next to Chave and Chapoutier) which had a quality struggle for a good 15 years until it was bought up by the Frey family in 2006 (Champagne Bilcart Salmon, Chateau La Lagune). Medium Ruby, surprisingly reddish color for a young Syrah. Nose of red fruit, some spices and oak. Enters the palate medium bodied with noticeable alcoholic heat and a roasted aroma profile, nothing oxidative though, the freshness is there. Not so much aromatic intensity and a bit short and hot on the finish, although it got better with time in the glass. While the 2010 and 2012 displayed spades of dark fruit and lots of complexity this almost comes across as a Trempranillo at first – nice to drink but more? Good, but not in the quality league of the 2010 and the 2012.
2007 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 95 Points
During a merchant vertical tasting. The first wine of this series who had a lot more blue fruit intermixed with the hot, red cherry compote notes. I like this cooler element clearly. Good structure too. Lovely, modern style Rhone that will do well with a broad group of tasters for sure. Ready now.
2006 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 95 Points
Medium garnet, brownish rim. Again here, just line in the 95, 98, 99 a rather warm aroma profile with torrefaction, rum pot, cherry, sweet spices. The palate is pleasant, medium bodied, not a blockbuster, rather pleasant. Medium complexity and finish (94pt). Drink up. Drank it from Magnum a few months later and the wine was much fresher with more energy. 95 pts for that wine
Photo of the old and now again new label (left) and the Label that was in use between 2005-2005 (right)
Vintages made under P.Jaboulet Aîné (1990-2004)
2001 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 95 Points
Medium garnet with brick hue. Expressive nose of red fruit, red current with lots of pepper, spices and earth, nice and complex mature aromas. On the palate this is medium bodied “only”, very elegant, the opposite of your sunny bruiser. A fantastic showing, great with food. Well liked by the guests on the table tonight as well. Fully mature, drink now till 2020.
1999 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 94 Points
During a merchant vertical tasting. Medium tawny. A bit more dark fruit in the nose here together with the warm cherry compote notes, some gamey scents too. Balance is better than of the 95 and 98 but still on the warm side. Medium finish, touch of heat. Good but not great. Drink up. 94+
1998 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 94 Points
During a merchant tasting. Medium tawny. Also here nose of rum pot, port, pepper, more balanced than the 1995, some smoke and leather as well. Rich and ripe palate just like the 95, 99 and 06. Good but I wished for a bit more freshness and structure for a higher score. Drink up.
1995 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 93 Points
During a merchant tasting. Medium tawny. Nose of rum pot, port, pepper, on the rich and ripe side, a whiff of brett as well. A bit new worldish on the palate, lots of heat on the finish. I noticed this with the 98, 99 and 06 today where the wine had this warm, almost Barossa style profile. Drink up.
1992 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 91 Points
During a Zoom blind tasting. The nose was nice with tobacco, meat, bacon and sour cherry, clearly tertiary. The palate was medium bodied, strong acidity vs the fruit left. Decent but not grand. Drink up.
Vintages made under P.Jaboulet Aîné (1961-1989)
1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 98 Points
Expressive and wonderful nose of tobacco, leather, meat, tertiary. Excellent palate, dissolved tannins, stays elegant. A benchmark Hermitage. Wow wine. Fully mature, drink up.
1983 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 94 Points
During a Zoom blind tasting. Slight oxidative nose with lots of red fruit, torrefaction, a sunny wine for sure, rich yet still gustatory. Fully mature, drink up.
1982 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 97 Points
Salon Focofi Paris walkabout tasting. Glorious bottle. Wonderful notes of farmyard, red fruit, spices, leather.
1979 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 96 Points
Beautiful tertiary nose. End of the drinking window but not tired. Very polished and tame, excellent tertiary, earthy, mushroom notes. Loved it.
1961 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle, 100 Points
This legendary (and crazy expensive) bottle was served as a ringer during a during a Burgundy tasting. Lots of structure, farmyard funk at the beginning, like the best Burgs we had today (Leroy) but with more structural density, deeper color, so it must be Rhone North was my hunch given we had a similar trick played to us the day before with an aged Guilgal La Mouline. Acidity and freshness here is top as well. No sign of oxidation. Sublime complexity and length. Another wow wine in this line-up and great to see that this mythical vintage of La Chapelle lived up to its reputation.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS
May, 2024