Current Maître Claudio Solgado organized this bi-annual trip dipping into his deep Rolodex of contacts. Passee Maître Stephane Benoist was also present. We visited a variety of Chateaus and were treated to a generous dinner at Domaine de Chevalier, Pessac Leognan and a wonderful lunch in St.Emilion by Chateau Angelus. There were many highlits as we also visited Chateau Latour and Lafite, something I have done the last time nearly 20 years ago. Bordeaux, a conservative region, but it is evolving as well. There are more dry whites produced, even some Chardonnay, more Cabernet Franc in the right bank enter the blends and of course a continued strive for quality which since 2016 is also accompanied by a wlecome dialling back on extraxtion. There is a lot of money at the top end, visible in the stunning new wineries designed by star architects.
A highlight of the trip was the induction of some of us as honorary members of the Commanderie de Bontemps de Medoc, Graves, Sauternes et Barsac organized by Grand Maitre Emmanuel Cruze. It was held at Domaine de Chevalier followed by a wonderful dinner with lots of interesting discussions and insider stories on what is currently happening in Bordeaux and the wine World more broadly.
Selected tasting notes of the trip
2015 Château Mouton Rothschild, 98-100 points
A really great showing. Absolutely wonderful mouth feel, tannins, fruit, acidity spot on. Elegant, not hot. Beautiful early tertiary aromas of cedar wood, earthy elements, lots of red fruit intermixed with blue fruit, cloves, spices. A big step up from the second wine. This will be grand. Best after 2030.
2014 Le Petit Mouton Rothschild, 90 points
This was still quite young with tannins really needing more time to resolve. Aromas more in the dark fruit spectrum compared to the 2015 Mouton Grand Vin next to it which was in a completely different league.
2015 Château Latour Grand Vin, 97+ points
It was interesting to taste this wine as we just had the Mouton 2015 at the Domaine a few hours ago. Both wines are a great success. Both are at the same quality level, the Latour was more masculine, precise, with cool blue fruit, the Mouton more exuberant. The tannins are really polished for a young Latour. One can see the progress here. I have visited this estate several times and on each visit I am impressed about the attention to detail and the professionalism. Also, one has to congratulate Latour to release wines only after ca 10 years and shoulder the capital cost. That will help consumers, especially restaurants, to have more mature wines on their list and be able to offer a better customer experience.
2017 Les Forts de Latour. 93 points
This had more aromas and precision than the 2019 Paulliac, third wine, next to it but felt a little light (like so many 2017s) for a higher score.
2019 Pauillac de Chateau Latour, 92+ points
A really nice showing. Plush, polished, great mouth feel and acidity, 2019 at its best. Very good for a 3rd wine.
2000 Château Lynch-Bages, 96+ points
During a lunch at the Chateau. From MAG, decanted. Lots of cassis, mint, some earthy elements. Deep and complex. Young still, this may end up as good as the 1989. Early drinking window.
2003 Château Lafite Rothschild, 96 points
Domaine visit. This was very fresh and youthful, surprisingly closed, more so than previous bottles. Looks like the ex Chateau wines in the cool cellar advance more slowly. The managed the hot vintage here well. Ripe fruit but no over-ripeness. 96+
2003 Château Angélus, 95 points
During a lunch with the Château at restaurant Logis de Cadene. A really nice surprise. This 2003 carried the hot vintage well. Ripe but not oxidative, lovely notes of torrefaction.
2015 Château Angélus, 94-95 points
Lunch at restaurant Logis de la Cadene. Lots of dark fruit with some red fruit, spices and vanilla as well. Modern, but in a good way, the balance is correct.
2005 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc Pessac-Léognan Blanc, 93 points
During a dinner at the domaine. Very popular wine, precise and generous with lovely citrus notes. They use DIAM cork now to avoid oxidation issues. 93-94
1985 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Rouge, 93 points
During a dinner at the domaine. Beautiful tertiary forest notes. Elegant palate, aristocratic. Carries its age well.
2005 Domaine de Chevalier Pessac-Léognan Rouge, 93 points
During a dinner at the domaine.. Showed well, tannins already integrated. Red fruit and spices. Medium complexity.
Author: Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
October 2023
