We met on the 2nd of September at the home of one of Switzerland’s most prolific Bordeaux collectors to see how these two Chateaux compare to each other. As always Jean-Marc Quarin led through the evening. The wines were served blind in flights of four. What connected them were two distinct features: The high percentage of Cabernet (CabSauv and CabFranc) in their vineyard and their location bordering Chateau Cheval Blanc where the soil consists of a good portion of gravel next to the more common clay and limestone soils of the right bank.
Both Chateaux showed well. You can see the progress of Chateau Figeac in the recent vintages. In Vieux Chateau Certan we felt that in recent vintages they moved away from the fresh, restraint style towards a riper one, a trend that we did not appreciate that much. It gave us a bit of sadness, and we need to follow-up whether this trend persists. Finally, worth mentioning, once more the vintage 2005 showed badly on the right bank. The wines were too extracted and advanced, a flaw that I have already seen numerous times. I would therefore stay away from 2005 in the right bank as it is a too much extraction case at many Chateaux at the peak of the Parker era. The 2005 left bank did much better.
Vieux Chateau Certan
Vieux Château Certan This Chateau, often called VCC in shorthand, has been being in the hand of the Belgian Family Thienpont since 1924. Alexandre Thienpont, a slender, quiet yet witty character has been making great wines for a long time, not following the “rich and ripe” Parker trend and has therefore been receiving lower scores from Wine Advocate than others.
The market seemed not to care and appreciated the quality and prices have steadily been increasing. Today VCC is regarded among the very great wines in Pomerol together with Trotanoy, Eglise-Clinet, La Conseillante, La-Fleur-Petrus and Evangile. To me these are the Pomerols one should have in the cellar. No need to waste money on the cult wines Petrus, Lafleur and Le Pin. I have had these wines numerous times and there simply is no or not enough quality gap to the wines mentioned before, but a 5-10 times price gap. I don’t mind shelling out four digits for a singular experience that cannot be replicated, like drinking a Rayas, Leroy, La Tache or Coche-Dury, but in Pomerol, the three cult wines are just too similar to the next few ones. I vividly remember my visit to VCC in 2005 and Alexandre Thienpont was funny and un usually candid with his opinion on his wine, objectively describing each vintage with its strength and weaknesses. I remember him saying. “oui il est bon le 2002, mais quand me me un peu court” or “un vin d’Espagne le 2003”. This is unheard of in Bordeaux where every other vintage is the vintage of the century, especially the one that is not sold yet… Overall production of Vieux Chateau Certan is 60’000 bottles for a 14-hectare vineyard. Its grape mix is 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon which is more like a “Saint-Emilion mix” than a Pomerol one, with usually is more like 80+% Merlot. However, it is worth mentioning that in the first wine, Merlot is often around 80% as well, so the difference in the bottle is less pronounced to the other Pomerol. As mentioned above I found the recent vintages on the ripe side, hopefully this is not a trend as this would be a pity.
Chateau Figeac
Figeac more than twice the size of VCC with 54 Ha and 120’000 bottles. We wrote in detail about Figeac in our 1985-2019 vertical tasting report. So we’ll keep it short here. Figeac has the most unusual grape variety blend of the Right Bank with 35/35/30 in favor of the two Cabernets. This makes for a wine that tastes more like a Medoc and the structure is also reminiscent of this region. We could also see this tonight, Figeac was often recognizable by its structure.
It is worth noting that Figeac had a long period of underperformance behind itself, nearly got demoted, and after a generational change has now achieved a Phoenix like rise which culminated in the promotion of a Premier Grand Cru Classe A in Sept. 2022. Figeac fans should therefore prioritize vintages from 2014 onwards.
The Tasting
Flight 1
Vieux Château Certan 2005, 88 pts
The nose opens with savoury aromas, featuring a touch of Maggi seasoning and hints of red fruit and earthy elements. On the palate, the wine starts with promise but thins out after the mid-palate, leaving an impression of being somewhat charmless and lacking in depth. Too advanced and quite rustic.
Château Figeac 2005, 87 pts
This wine presents a discreet nose also with subtle notes of Maggi seasoning, indicating some age. On the palate, the oxidative character persists with a touch of alcoholic heat that detracts from its overall balance. The wine feels very earthy with a drying finish and an impression of heat.
Vieux Château Certan 1998, 94+ pts
The nose is understated, dominated by the scent of rose petals, which lend an elegant floral character. The palate is beautifully balanced, with well-measured fruit and a touch of farmyard funk that adds complexity. The overall impression is one of harmony and refinement, making this a standout wine.
Château Figeac 1998, 92 pts
This wine offers a wonderful nose, with aromas of forest floor and red and dark fruits, though the presence of oak is noticeable. On the palate, the wine is medium bodied with good acidity but a slight drying finish. Despite these minor flaws, the wine remains expressive and enjoyable.
Flight 2
Château Figeac 2009, 94 pts
The nose is discreet, revealing lovely rose petals and a mix of red and dark fruits, with a youthful vibrancy. On the palate, Me doc-like aromas of forest floor emerge, supported by a structured presence with noticeable but well-integrated tannins. Pine and blackberry notes linger on the finish, ©Figeac contributing to the wine complexity and appeal.
Vieux Château Certan 2009, 96-97 pts
A muted nose introduces this wine, with subtle hints of dark and red fruits, particularly raspberry. The palate is marked by elegance, offering a caressing texture front to back. The balance is impeccable, with soft notes of vanilla and oak on the finish. This wine is both refined and graceful, showcasing a remarkable “sucrosité ”.
Vieux Château Certan 2010, 96 pts
The nose reveals a hint of lovage, adding a savoury dimension. On the palate, the wine is elegant, with well-integrated tannins that contribute to a complex and caressing texture. This is a beautifully balanced wine that impresses with its finesse and depth. I even had it in the past with higher score than this.
Château Figeac 2010, 94+ pts
The nose is floral, with aromas of red and dark fruits complemented by vanilla. The palate is rich and ripe, showing grandeur and intensity, though the alcohol is noticeable, particularly on the finish. The finish is somewhat drying and will benefit from additional time in the bottle to integrate further. This may well add a point or two once mature.
Flight 3
Vieux Château Certan 2018, 93 pts
This wine opens with cool red fruit on the nose, accompanied by restrained notes of mint. The palate displays youthful aromas with a rich yet fresh character, showcasing ripe fruit and a soft texture. There is a modern touch, highlighted by a hint of chocolate on the finish, though the wine does lean slightly towards the heavy side, not surprising once the vintage was revealed.
Trotanoy 2018, 93+ pts
Ringer. On the nose, this wine presents aromas of pine and cool blue fruit, still somewhat timid and youthful. The palate is dominated by an abundance of plum, with a rich, Californian-like character. Thankfully, there is no excess heat, though the wine is heavily marked by gingerbread, vanilla, and oak. It offers a good Merlot-driven dry extract. Needs cellar time.
Château Figeac 2018, 96-97 pts
The nose is beautifully expressive, featuring red cherry, raspberry, vanilla, and oak. On the palate, the wine is racy and fresh, with a caressing texture and notes of caramel. It strikes a fine balance between modernity and complexity, making it a truly remarkable expression of the vintage. A great achievement in this hot vintage.
La Conseillante 2018, 96 pts
Ringer. This wine opens with aromas of red fruit, earthy elements, mint, and spice, giving it a grand presence. The palate is excellently structured, offering both richness and freshness. This is a very grand wine, with superb structure and a vibrant, lively character that makes it stand out among its peers. Much better showing than my last encounter with this Cru.
Flight 4
Vieux Château Certan 2016, 96-97 pts
This wine is richer and riper than the Figeac next to it, with notes of plum and raspberry, though there is a light touch of heat at the palate entry but the acidity balances it, buffering the ripeness. Overall, the wine is really impressive and very enjoyable, especially after some time in the glass, when the heat subsides. Another grand 2016.
Vieux Château Certan 2019, 93 pts
The nose is still timid, offering red fruit and rum pot that suggest some over-ripeness. The palate lacks balance, showing also some notes and a fluid, slightly lean texture. The wine may need more time to fully develop and integrate its components. Hard to judge today. The 2019 may be closing down.
Château Figeac 2019, 92? pts
This wine shows green elements on the nose, with asparagus-like notes. The palate is medium bodied, making it more suitable for pairing with food. However, it comes across as slightly dry and unripe, with a finish that lacks the ripeness expected from the vintage. Possibly an off bottle as mentioned by Jean-Marc Quarin.
Croix de Labrie 2020, Saint-Emilion, 92 pts
Ringer. Starts with very dark fruit on the nose, lots of vanilla and oak, giving it a rich, modern profile. Gingerbread notes and some warmth, while the palate remains pleasant, offering a caressing texture, the style leans towards a Californian expression.
Flight 5
Clos du Clocher 2020, 95 pts
Ringer. Rich and ripe, dark fruit dominate the nose, reflecting a modern style with substantial Merlot driven dry extract. The palate is very balanced and seductive, though there is some concern about its potential for aging. Nonetheless, it offers an immediate, enjoyable experience.
Vieux Château Certan 2020, 90 pts
The nose presents Rum pot aromas, with rich, ripe fruit and a hint of alcoholic heat. On the palate, there is a cooked raspberry jam quality that adds sweetness but also a sense of heaviness, which detracts from the quality.
Château Figeac 2020, 88 pts
This wine offers red and dark fruit on the nose, along with earthy elements, mint, and spice. The palate is medium bodied, with ripe fruit intermixed with green notes that suggest unripe Cabernet. In a blind tasting might lead one to guess a southern Rho ne wine rather than a classic Bordeaux. The finish is marked by a hint of greenness, contributing to an overall impression of a wine that may lack phenolic ripeness but lots of sugar ripeness. A low score for now, let’s see what the future brings.
Château Figeac 2015, 96 pts
The nose is expressive, with red fruit and spice aromas. The palate is exceptionally well-balanced, offering a fresh, caressing texture that is both measured and composed. It is completed by a measured tannic structure on the finish, and the overall impression is one of elegance, complexity, and poise.
Flight 6
Vieux Château Certan 2015, 87 pts
Oh la, la, rich and ripe, almost to the point of excess. The palate is full-throttle and opulent, with a touch of oxidation that makes it somewhat difficult to enjoy. The overall style feels overdone, with the wine balance tipping towards heaviness.
Château Figeac 2014, 95 pts
The nose opens with classic forest floor aromas, evoking a grand, old-school Me doc style. On the palate, the wine is elegant and light, with a measured approach that highlights its classic Bordeaux character. This is a wine of refinement and grace, offering a traditional profile that stands out in its vintage. An outstanding 2014.
Vieux Château Certan 2014, 89 pts
This wine presents ripe raspberry and cooked fruit on the nose, with an overly jammy character that suggests it may be overdone. The palate is dense and slightly tiring, with a finish that feels a bit heavy and lacks the balance and freshness typically associated with this estate.
Authors: Christian Raubach & Andy Schnyder
Sept. 2024