We have written a longer introductory piece on Riesling in our “Report from the road section”, see link for more details.
Riesling, while not as popular as Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, it is revered by Sommeliers and wine professionals alike. Jancis Robinson, MW, for example, says: “Riesling is arguably the finest white grape variety in the world, capable of producing wines of stunning intensity, longevity, and character from dry to lusciously sweet.” Stuart Pigott, British wine author and Riesling expert, adds: “No other white wine can offer such a complete, complex and exciting experience as a fine Riesling.” Indeed, Riesling can offer a remarkably diverse spectrum of aromas, ranging from green apple, citrus, and stone fruits to floral and mineral notes, which evolve with age to include intriguing petrol-like nuances derived from TDN compounds. Renowned for its ability to express terroir, Riesling can reflects the unique climatic and geological characteristics of its origins, whether the slate soils of Mosel, the limestone of Alsace, or Austria’s volcanic terrains, bringing the essence of its growing region to the glass. Its stylistic range, from bone-dry to lusciously sweet, allows it to pair with an array of dishes, from light aperitifs to rich desserts, offering sommeliers unmatched flexibility. The pronounced acidity and moderate alcohol content lend the wine a dynamic freshness and structure, ensuring that even the sweetest styles remain lively and balanced (unlike Sauternes for example). Its remarkable aging potential further enhances its appeal, as older bottles develop complex layers of honey, dried fruit, and petrol notes, rewarding patient collectors and wine enthusiasts with an ever-evolving experience.
We took the opportunity to stage a dry Riesling evening with Schnitzel as a fitting menue. We were joined by Nick Adamus as co-host who is an avid Riesling collector and generously curated “encores” from his cellar.
Tasting notes
| Rang | Wein (Trocken) |
| 1. | 2007 Wittmann, Kirchspiel GG 2007 Keller, Hubacker GG |
| 3. | 2013 Emrich-Schönleber, Halenberg GG |
| 4. | 2019 Van Volxem, Scharzhofberg GG
2008 Huegel, Schoelhammer |
| 6. | 2019 Dönnhoff, Hermannshöhle 2015 Gunderloch, Rothenberg GG |
| 8. | 2015 Veyder-Malberg, Weissenkirchner Buschenberg
2013 Kartäuserhof, Eitelsbacher Kartäuserhofberg Trocken «S» |
| 10. | 2021 Dr. Loosen, Ürziger Würzgarten unterst Pichter Reserve 2007 Spreitzer, Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen erstes Gewächs |
| NA | 2006 Trimbach, Clos-St.Hune (not rated) |
Flight 1
2017 Dr. Loosen, Ürziger Riesling Würzgarten Unterst Pichter GG, 94 pts
Opening with a lively nose of lemon and green apple, this wine shows medium aromatic complexity, with a fresh, inviting top note. On the palate, it is racy and dry, yet slightly richer than expected, offering a balanced, vibrant expression of Riesling.
2019 Van Volxem, Riesling Scharzhofberger Großes Gewächs, 96 pts
This wine delivers remarkable aromatic complexity, featuring layers of herbs, fennel, and a subtle yeast note that enhances its depth. The palate is precise and almost weightless, with a laser-sharp focus that maintains finesse without ever feeling thin or aggressive.
Dönnhoff, Riesling Hermannshöhle GG, , 95 pts
Youthful on the nose, with hints of fennel and a touch of residual CO₂ lending a playful lift. Notes of candied fruit make it immediately approachable, while the palate is slightly richer, providing a rounder, more generous profile that balances its lively aromatics.
Flight 2
2006 Trimbach, Riesling Clos St.Hune, Flawed
A ripe nose marked by aromas of apricot and a delicate botrytis influence. Rich and unctuous on the palate, though it would benefit from a touch more freshness to balance its ripeness and intensity. Not Rated.
2015 Veyder-Malberg, Riesling Weissenkirchner Buschenberg, 93 pts
Displaying a bright nose of lemon and green apple, accented with beeswax, this wine has medium aromatic complexity. On the palate, it’s racy and lean, with bright acidity that enlivens its fresh profile.
2008 Hugel, Riesling Schoelhammer, 93 pts
A classic petrol note dominates the nose, interwoven with subtle asparagus undertones. Medium-bodied with a phenolic edge, the wine shows fresh acidity that balances its structure, giving it a clean and refreshing finish.
Flight 3
2007 Keller, Riesling Hubacker, 94 pts
The nose opens with ripe notes of apricot, yellow apple, and a hint of honey, with a touch of quince and a whisper of petrol in the background. Generous on the palate, with enough acidity to provide structure and support, it ends with a pleasingly fresh finish.
2007 Wittmann, Riesling Kirchspiel GG, 96 pts
A complex bouquet of mint and apricot greets the nose, offering an inviting aromatic profile. Medium-bodied, sappy, and fresh, this wine leads into a long finish that speaks to its well-judged balance and finesse.
2007 Spreitzer Hattenheimer Riesling Wisselbrunnen Erstes Gewächs, 94 pts
A restrained nose with petrol and orange peel, showing slight advancement though still within an acceptable range. Medium-plus in body, the palate is rich without any flabbiness, creating an engaging balance.
Flight 4
2013 Emrich-Schönleber, Halenberg Riesling GG, 96 pts
This wine displays a complex nose with aromas of petrol, lemon, and minerality. The palate is precise and long, with a beautifully delineated structure that speaks to its quality and persistence.
2015 Gunderloch, Nackenheim Rothenberg Riesling GG, 94 pts
A nose of pronounced petrol and minerality, with a reductive edge and hints of herbs interwoven. The palate is lean and strict, yet not overly austere, showing focus and character.
2005 Karthäuserhof, Eitelsbacher Kartäuserhofberg Riesling Trocken “S”, Flawed
Botrytis dominates the aroma here, with notes reminiscent of a light Sauternes. This wine leans more toward a dessert profile. Not Rated.
Flight 5 (Dessert Wines)
2001 Dr. Loosen, Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese, 92 pts
Aromas of apricot, petrol, and ripe quince lend a ripe yet nuanced nose. Medium-bodied with a balanced sweetness, it feels almost like a light Sauternes, combining both freshness and richness.
2001 Joh.Jos.Prüm, Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese, 93 pts
The nose reveals ripe apricot with subtle botrytis, showing warmth and depth. Medium-bodied, with enough acidity to support the richness and roundness of its palate.
2003 Keller, Weshofener Morstein Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, 95 pts
Deep amber in color, the wine opens with intense aromas of orange jam, apricot, Christmas spice, resin, quince, and molasses. Rich on the palate, it’s sweet yet backed by vibrant acidity, achieving a balance that will appeal to those who enjoy TBA-level sweetness.
Christian Raubach, WSET III, FWS, WSG Champagne Master
October 2024