This tasting of 15 Syrahs brought together an eclectic range of Syrahs and Shiraz from the Northern Rhône, Australia, South Africa and Switzerland, spanning vintages from the mid-1990s to the present day. The stylistic breath of Syrah was on full display: this grape can shift between Burgundian finesse and muscular intensity, between classical austerity and modern richness. Some of the stars present, fully delivered on the expectations (Grange, Guigal La Mouline, Gonon) while others (both Chave Hermitage vintages, Chapoutier) did not show well. Overall, there was a sense of disappointment in the room, as too many bottles did not show well – in my book 8 out of 15 had some degree of problem. Still, if Syrah is on, it can easily compete with the best wines in the world.
Group Voting – Top 5
1) Penfolds, Grange 1998
2) Gonon, St. Joseph 2016
2) Rockford, SVS Hoffmann 2001
4) Guigal, La Mouline 2018
5) Torbreck, RunRig 1998
5) Porseleinenberg, Syrah 2020
Flight 1
2019 Levet Les Journaries / Maestria, 92 Points
Very fine nose, full of dark berries and a touch of black pepper, rich and generous from the start. The palate mirrors the nose, round, ripe, and polished with a modern sheen. Good structure, fine tannins, creamy texture, and fresh acidity. Perhaps a touch too ripe and modern stylistically, but overall well made and satisfying.
2016 Gonon Saint-Joseph, 95 Points
Initially quite restrained, with faint earthy and herbal notes. The palate is classic and understated, showing spice, herbs, and subtle fruit. With air, the wine opened up beautifully, revealing fresh dark berries and seamless balance. Elegant and luxurious without an ounce of modernity. A joy to drink. Started at 91 to 92 points, but by the end was firmly in 95pts territory.
2018 Guigal La Mouline, 97 Points
Wide open from the first pour. This screamed LaLa with unmatched aromatic range: from delicate red berries to darker fruit, a wave of spice, herbs, and earthy minerality. Young and intense, possibly too much for some in its current form. With air, the Pinot-like elegance began to shine and the wine settled into a Côte-Rôtie rhythm. In three decades, with the tertiary spectrum in play, this may be perfect.
Flight 2
1999 Delas Frères Les Bessards, 85 Points
Still drinkable but clearly past its peak. There is a dark fruit core, earthy minerality, herbs, and mushroom notes, yet oxidation dominates both nose and palate. Air helped to soften it slightly, but the wine never fully recovered.
1995 Chapoutier Le Pavillon, 91 Points
Muted nose. The palate shows more character with smoke, minerality, and some late-emerging fruit sweetness. The structure is fine, the tannins soft, acidity integrated. Overall, a decent wine, but a disappointment considering the estates and the 100pt score from the Parker team a few years back. But not entirely surprising, I have yet to taste a truly convincing older Chapoutier.
1995 Chave Hermitage, 91 Points
Tight at first with little expression. With time, it revealed some complexity with menthol and toasty notes providing intrigue. Despite that, the wine lacked depth and finished with austerity. Fell short of expectations. 90 to 91 points.
Flight 3
1998 Penfolds Grange, 96 Points
Classic Grange from the first sniff. Powerful aromatics and immense depth, filled with dark fruit, Asian spice, meaty notes, earth, and smoke. The palate is high-definition, sweet and savory, carried by freshness and impeccable structure. Despite hours of air, the wine still felt young and slightly overwhelming. Grange needs decades to reveal its red-fruited, Pinot-like magic. This was not there yet, but still a joy to drink.
1998 Torbreck RunRig, 94 Points
The nose remained muted and never fully opened. On the palate, dark fruit takes center stage, accompanied by juniper, Asian spices, and earthy minerality. The wine is complex and inviting, though it lacks the refinement and depth of the Grange in the same flight. Ripe but not excessive, it is well framed with good structure and balance. This was my first encounter with an older RunRig, and while I have reservations about the longevity of younger vintages, this bottle gave reason for optimism. Still, it raises the question whether the concern is not longevity, but rather whether there is meaningful development at all.
2001 Rockford SVS Hoffmann, 95 Points
First time with this winery and cuvée. It stood out with its red fruit clarity and more delicate profile compared to the darker, denser Grange and RunRig. Ripe but not exaggerated, less complex than the Grange but with excellent depth, finesse, and balance. One of my top wines of the night.
Flight 4
2009 Simon Maye Syrah Vieilles Vignes, 90 Points
The nose was stunning, packed with olive tapenade, herbs, spices, and dark fruit—easily 94 to 95pts on aroma alone. The palate did not quite match, slightly lactic and lacking tension. The finish was short. Scored primarily on the strength of the nose. 89 to 90 points.
2005 Delas Les Bessards, 90 Points
A disappointing showing. The nose was subdued, the palate lacked complexity and drive, and there were signs of oxidation. This was unrecognizable compared to the luxurious, energetic bottle tasted a few years ago. Possibly in an awkward phase, but the oxidative tones raise doubts about the longevity of this wine.
2006 Chave Hermitage, Not Rated
A shame. There was clear complexity beneath the surface, but the wine was corked and ultimately undrinkable.
Flight 5
2019 Luddite Shiraz, 91 Points
Expressive nose and palate filled with ripe dark fruit, spice, herbs, and earth. Framed by good freshness and elegant structure. Blind, this could easily be mistaken for Australian Shiraz. A touch too ripe for my taste, but the frame and spice carried the wine.
2020 Porseleinberg, 85 Points
This might have been a bad bottle. Stylistically a mix between Northern Rhone and Washington. Loaded with olive and tapenade aromatics, which I love, but the palate was marred by aggressive green notes and the tannins felt unripe (I’m quite sensitive to that). The result was astringent and unpleasant, though some others at the table enjoyed it much more.
2010 Clarendon Hills Astralis, 89 Points
Very expressive from start to finish. Packed with extremely ripe fruit, dense spice, and herbal tones. Still young and monolithic. The structure is fine with well-integrated acidity and polished tannins. While technically impressive, the style is too extreme for my preferences. That said, considering past oxidation issues with older Astralis, this was a pleasant surprise.
Author: Andy Schnyder
September 2025